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Dhow Eye: Mystic vision 'guides' Lamu boats from danger

White star, crescent moon combine to form an eye said to protect boats.

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by cheti praxides

Counties10 June 2022 - 19:00
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In Summary


  • Symbol engraved or painted on every boat built in the region and is believed to keep the vessel and passengers safe.
  • It is said to be alive and look beyond the horizon for any danger and help the boat to navigate away from it.
A huge eye hangs along the sea front in Lamu island. It combines a star and a crescent moon.

@ppcheti

The Eye of the Dhow is painted or engraved on boats, houses, shops, clothing, cookware, appliances and many other things for protection.

It's the guiding spirit of Lamu.

Elders call it the Eye of Lamu but it's mostly known as the Eye of the Dhow because it is believed to keep boats and passengers safe at sea. It is believed to come alive and actually see, helping sailors navigate.

Eyes on boats, warships and other vessels go back to ancient Greece and worldwide many cultures paint protective eyes on boats, usually on both sides of the prow.

In the Lamu archipelago with its dangerous and often unpredictable seas, the eye can be anywhere on the decorated vessel.

In red, black and white, it's a white star with a white crescent moon on a black background within a red ring.

Fishermen, coxswains and sailors believe it guides boats in Indian Ocean waters. It can be seen on every vessel built in the region and is believed to see beyond the horizon and help navigate the vessel away from danger.

Lamu elder and historian Mohamed Mbwana said the Eye of the Dhow has been used for more than 2,000 years,long before the compass was invented. It is considered a mystical navigational tool.

Once it’s engraved on a vessel, it is believed to be the actual living eye of that vessel and can even help if the coxswain is not paying attention.

Mbwana said the eye is able to foresee any danger, such as shoals and whales, influencing the boat to change direction.

“Every single marine vessel made here has all the senses that a human being has. The star and crescent are the eyes while the rudder steering handle is the ear," he said.

"When a boat is approaching danger, the eye will see and signal a different direction. Many lives are saved that way,” Mbwana said.

He said the Eye of the Dhow has guided Lamu and foreign sailors who want to explore the Indian Ocean from Lamu.

Ancient navigators like Vasco Da Gama from Portugal and other sailors from Asia and Europe have relied on the same stars and crescent moon eyes to visit the East African coast, Mbwana said.

Swahili cultural adviser Alawy Abzein said before the invention of the compass, sailors navigated by the moon and stars. They also indicated when the tides were high  and dangerous and when it was safe to travel, when to stay ashore.

“Just by looking at the position and size of the moon and stars, they were able to know which direction to take and when," he said.

Abzein said the Eye of the Dhow is revered spiritually in Lamu as the Prophet Muhammad is believed to have had a star and crescent tattoo on his back behind his shoulder.

“That’s why the symbol is universally used as a symbol of the Islamic Faith, just asChristians have the cross as a symbol of their faith,” he said.

It’s the reason every Islamic religious activity involves the moon, its sighting and positioning.

“We use the moon to know when to start and end Ramadhan, the new year and many other activities," Abzein said.

Therefore, the eye is both a cultural and religious aspect of the lives of Lamu people, who are mostly Muslims.

In most Muslim countries, you will encounter the symbol of the crescent moon and star, he said.

Lamu cleric Mohamed Abdulkadir says for Lamu to identify itself as a Muslim hub, ancient boat makers incorporated the Eye of the Dhow symbol in their boat making.

As the cleric explains, though the symbol is unique to Lamu, the sale of Lamu-made vessels has seen it migrate to other counties along the Coast.

“Be it in Mombasa, Kilifi or wherever, any boat with the eye is definitely made in Lamu," Abdulkadir said.

Because of the eye, Lamu boats and their makers stand out from the rest.

Curator of Lamu Museums and World Heritage site Mohamed Mwenje says the Eye of the Dhow has become an identity symbol for Lamu and its people.

Its genesis lies with the Islamic culture and today you will find the Eye of the Dhow it on everything from hotels to handbags.

(Edited by V. Graham)

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