When a young Maasai moran left Narok in 1996 and headed to Nairobi in search of work, the rates of unemployment were not as sky-high as they are today.
The youngster, 22, got a job as a guard at Kenyatta market. Being enterprising and determined to lead a more comfortable life, he decided to go against his Maasai culture by plaiting women's hair.
The gamble paid off and has since proved to be profitable. In 2006, he ditched Nairobi for Mombasa, where he established a Maasai plaiting industry, which has grown so big it is almost becoming a monopoly.
The founder's name is Jackson, now 48. Due to fear of retribution at home, he asked not to reveal his full name.
"In our culture, men are allowed to plait each other. In fact, the practice is quite common at home," Jackson said.
"However, Maasai men plaiting women's hair is a sin, bigger than immorality. It is unheard of. Harsh economic challenges forced us to do this business. It has proven a saviour and I doubt any of these men will look back."
He said in the Maasai culture, women are supposed to shave their heads clean.
In fact, at home, the shaving sheet is so much on demand. If you walk around, you will find Maasai women with heads shining like iron sheets, he said.
BUSINESS LOCATION
Jackson and a bevy of his friends have several plaiting joints at Malindi matatu stage in Buxton, Mombasa. Jackson was the first one to open shop and then others followed.
"Most of us came here to work as security guards," he said.
"A good number of us work at the Kenya Ports Authority premises. Since we work at night, I saw it better to start this business to keep me productively busy during the day," he said.
During its inception, he used to offer services under tree shades. With time, business grew bigger and he opened a salon akin to the conventional salon stalls. He then employed five fellow Maasai men, including Duncan Tobiko.
Tobiko recalls how things fell apart. "Unfortunately, we were evicted from the stalls and the buildings were demolished to pave way for a modern housing project. Now we have to operate in the open," he said.
The Maasai plait in only one style, popularly known as twist, Jackson says.
"We chose to specialise in this because we have known it from time immemorial," he said.
"Besides, we don't want to compete so much with the lady hairdressers here. They have families to take care of and perhaps they are banking on the hairdressing business to earn a living. So we decided to stick to this."
Duncan Tobiko came to Mombasa in 2015 to work as a watchman. However, slowly but certainly, he admired the work his colleagues were doing and decided to give it a try. Upon trying, he sank in so deep he had to quit the security job and concentrate on plaiting.
"It pays far better than the guarding work. In a day, I can attend to about three women," he said.
"The price ranges between Sh800 and Sh2,000. Sometimes when there are many customers, we partner with each other to do the work quickly."
The morans chose Buxton area due to its strategic position. Tobiko came and found it at the centre of business. He said it is the most strategic position for their craft.
Buxton has already been known by many people as the place of our operation. But again, it is central and easily accessible by people from Bamburi, Changamwe, Mtwapa and Mombasa town. Plus it is adjacent to a major road junction, he said.
Their plaiting survives more than a month, clean and beautiful, and the Maasai take about two hours to plait the whole head, while ladies take almost a full day
CUSTOMERS HAPPY
Wanjiku Ng'ang'a is a regular customer of the Maasai plaiters. She comes from Likoni to look for the Maasai every month.
"Some time back, a friend came to visit me. Her hair was so nicely plaited," she said.
"So I became curious and wanted to know where she had been plaited, and by who. I couldn't believe it was these Maasai who did the fantastic job until I came to confirm. Since I discovered them, I hardly go elsewhere. They are just blessed in this work."
Sheila Mwasamba, a resident, said she likes being plaited by the Maasai because women plaiters offer substandard service.
"If your hair is plaited by a woman, trust me, it can't last beyond the second week. The plaits will wear out too fast," she said.
"But with the Maasai, it survives more than a month, clean and beautiful. In addition, the Maasai take about two hours to plait the whole head, while ladies take almost a full day."
However, Sheila said the plaits by Maasai are more painful than the normal plaits done by women.
"These ones are a bit more painful, especially during the first three days. To assuage the pain, I take painkillers or apply hot water on my head, she said.
NO RIVALRY
Next to the Maasai are several other women hairdressers. One is run by Jane Stephen. When asked about the competition from the Maasai, she was welcoming.
"As much as there is competition for customers, we complement each other several times. For example, they sometimes bring me their customers to wash and blow-dry them before plaiting," Jane said.
However, the money accrued by the Maasai from this business cannot be invested. Instead, it is used almost immediately it comes to avoid any danger it might bring.
Alex Salingo believes that due to the taboo they have broken, their gods can punish them.
"We are doing what we should not be doing. This is like an abomination in our culture," he said.
"In addition, a good number of these Coastal women are not happy with our progress because we have taken up their work."
Due to that, they always try to use the money almost as soon as it comes.
"Otherwise, it might bring a bad omen or make your investments come down crashing should you inject it there. So we either use it immediately or send it to our wives to buy utilities, but not to invest or save," Salingo said.
Sometimes, customers want to start romantic relationships with the morans. Salingo said he has been proposed to several times by his customers but has always avoided taking the bait.
"I am doing this for the sole purpose of feeding myself and my family. Again, I have a wife and children at home to take care of. The moment you start dating these women, you will have lost it completely. For one to survive, he must have the discipline to focus on his goal," he said.
Meanwhile, Jackson is planning to quit any time soon. He says he has overstayed in the business and should retire to his home and family in Narok.
"I have done this for a long time now and I feel like it is causing me complications in my chest," he said.
"Handling women's hair on a daily basis is not healthy. Their hair has chemicals that require you to take drugs and milk every day. For me, I feel it is enough now," he said.
As Jackson plans to exit the scene, newbies like Tobiko can only dream of expanding their small empire.
"This business has indeed sustained me well. I have even started offering dreadlock services in addition to twist," he said.
"The only challenge as at now is lacking a basic structure from which to operate. But generally, I believe that brighter days are coming."
Edited by T Jalio