Martin Gitau Nyagah works for the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya/HANDOUT
Mitumba, the second-hand clothing trade, has played a significant role in Kenya and the wider East African Community (EAC) for many years. The Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) is at the forefront of research into the societal and economic effects of this industry and the policies that are needed to support it.
Job Creation and Economic Growth
A recent report, "The Second Hand Clothing Sector in East Africa” by Professor Patrick Diamond of Queen Mary University in the UK showed that the mitumba industry is a critically important source of employment within Kenya and the wider EAC. Millions of individuals find livelihoods in various sectors of the trade, from collection and sorting to distribution and retail.
We estimate that the second-hand clothes industry supports up to 2 million jobs in Kenya alone and 3.4 million jobs throughout the supply chain in East Africa, generating revenues estimated at US$419 million (55 billion shillings).
Moreover, second-hand clothes generate competition that helps to incentivize
technological innovation throughout the textile production sector. At the same
time, the used clothing industry is helping to put East Africa and the world on
the path towards a more sustainable, circular economy.
The employment opportunities created by mitumba contribute to poverty alleviation, especially for those with limited formal education or skills. According to a further study by the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), the mitumba sector in East Africa generates substantial employment, often exceeding that of the formal textile industry.
Supporting Local Businesses
The mitumba trade positively impacts local businesses rather
than undermines them. Local entrepreneurs, such as retailers and traders,
thrive by operating alongside the mitumba industry. Mitumba also acts as a catalyst for
commercial activity, attracting customers to local shops and stimulating
economic growth in surrounding areas.
Mitumba plays a vital role in community development by providing affordable clothing options for individuals across the socio-economic spectrum. Families with limited financial resources can access high-quality garments at affordable prices, thereby meeting their basic needs. Moreover, the availability of affordable clothing enhances overall standards of living, enabling households to allocate resources to other essential needs such as education, healthcare, and food security. By supporting community development, the mitumba trade contributes to social cohesion and improved well-being.
Mitumba and Local Textile Industries
The coexistence of the mitumba trade and local textile industries is respectful and profitable. There are huge potentials for continued collaboration and synergy between the two sectors. Local textile industries can benefit from the presence of mitumba by utilizing imported fabrics and materials for manufacturing processes. The availability of low-cost raw materials can enhance their competitiveness and support the growth of domestic textile production. Additionally, skill transfer from the mitumba sector to local textile industries can improve the overall capacity and quality of local production.
Government and regulatory issues
The sector is grateful for the sensible regulatory environment that currently exists. The EAC and national governments should develop strategies to ensure the gains generated by the sector are widely shared. Not only does a growing second-hand clothes industry work in the interests of regional economic development, the sector also makes a vital contribution in driving the transition towards a more circular and sustainable economy.
A vibrant second-hand clothes sector increases the reuse rate for textiles and ensures more material will be used for recycling. The global transition from low cost ‘fast fashion’ to a circular production model is an urgent imperative and East Africa has the potential to lead the way.
Environmental Impact
The Second Hand Clothes market in Kenya not only provides employment, economic growth and tax revenues for Kenya, but it does all this while cutting greenhouse emissions, reducing waste and lessening the impact on the environment of the global fashion industry.
A recent study “The Quality of Second-Hand Clothes Imported to Kenya and the Associated Environmental Impacts” by Information Research Solutions, found that the vast majority of SHCs imported into Kenya meet quality standards, supported by a robust sorting infrastructure, and that the quality control and inspection processes overseen by the Government of Kenya ensures low levels of clothing waste and high level of compliance. This means that the proportion of waste generated by imported second-hand clothes into Kenya is estimated at less than 2%.
While there is always more that can be done to drive down
waste and increase reuse, the lean, green and profitable circular model
demonstrated by the Second Hand Clothes trade in Kenya shows the very real and
positive impact you can have with a well regulated and run model that provides
economic, social and environmental benefits.
Conclusion
Mitumba, beyond its huge economic significance, represents a thriving industry that embodies resilience, entrepreneurship, and sustainability. It serves as an example of how a well-regulated and socially responsible trade can uplift communities, provide employment opportunities, and enhance living standards. By recognizing the economic benefits of mitumba, we embrace the spirit of collaboration and mutual growth, fostering a robust and inclusive community.
As the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya, we remain committed to promoting a thriving mitumba trade that supports the local textile industry, respects entrepreneurship, promotes effective regulatory decision making and contributes to sustainable development.
Our message to African leaders is that the second hand clothes industry leads to economic empowerment and can do so alongside the textile industry. Together, we can weave together opportunities and foster a prosperous tomorrow for all in Kenya and East Africa.
The writer, Martin Gitau Nyagah works for the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya
