NYAGAH: We support initiatives aimed at revitalizing textile sector

The recent article titled "Mitumba, Fabric Imports Stifling Textile Industry" presents a perspective that attributes the challenges faced by Kenya's textile sector to the influx of second-hand clothing and fabric imports.

While we acknowledge the concerns raised, we believe it is crucial to highlight research that demonstrates how the mitumba sector and local textile manufacturing can and does coexist to support economic growth and consumer needs.

The liberalisation of Kenya’s import and the use of Mitumba happened more substantially in the 90’s. By that time most government owned and private textile companies in Kenya had already closed down.

Mitumba imports are not a threat to the textile industry. Our 2023 report The Second-Hand Clothing Industry in the East African Community  underscores the significant economic contributions of the mitumba trade.

It shows that the growth of the second-hand clothing industry does not necessarily undermine the revival of the local textile sector.

Instead, the two industries serve different market segments, offering affordable clothing to low and middle-income consumers, while allowing local textile manufacturers to focus on premium and niche products. One reason people buy mitumba is because they can’t afford to buy new clothes.

Yet, there is a growing segment of the population that can afford and desires to buy good quality, locally made new clothes, if they were accessible. The real threat to the local textile industry is from the importation of cheap new clothes from Asia, which would significantly increase if imports of mitumba were stopped.

We, as the Mitumba Association, wholeheartedly support the government's focus on initiatives aimed at revitalizing the textile sector, including subsidies for cotton development and the provision of free seeds to local farmers. Kenya's economy can successfully sustain both local production and the second-hand clothing sectors.

Economic Empowerment and Job Creation

The mitumba industry is a significant contributor to Kenya's economy, supporting approximately 2 million jobs nationwide and 3.4 million across East Africa.

This sector generates substantial revenue, reaching 18 billion shillings annually. These figures underscore the industry's role in providing livelihoods, especially for individuals with limited formal education or skills, thereby contributing to poverty alleviation and economic empowerment.

Coexistence with Local Textile Industries

Contrary to the belief that mitumba imports undermine local textile production, evidence suggests a harmonious coexistence is possible. A report by the Institute of Economic Affairs indicates that Kenyan households spend more on new clothing than on second-hand items, with 91.5% of households spending less than Sh1,000 on mitumba while 25.5% buying new clothes priced aboveSh1,000.

This data suggests that the demand for new clothing remains strong, while the availability of mitumba provides consumers with affordable options without substantially impacting local textile sales.

Environmental Considerations

The mitumba trade contributes to environmental sustainability by promoting the reuse of clothing, thereby reducing textile waste. A study titled "The Quality of Second-Hand Clothes Imported to Kenya and the Associated Environmental Impacts" found that the majority of imported second-hand clothes meet quality standards, with waste generated by these imports estimated at less than 2%.

This efficient reuse aligns with global efforts to transition towards a circular economy, mitigating the environmental impact of the fashion industry.

By reusing clothing, the sector reduces demand for new garment production, conserving water, energy, and raw materials. This practice mitigates the fashion industry's environmental impact and supports global sustainability efforts.

Policy Implications

While it's crucial to support and revitalize Kenya's local textile industry, policies aimed at restricting mitumba imports could have unintended consequences, including significant job losses and economic disruption.

A balanced approach that fosters the growth of domestic textile production while recognizing the economic and social benefits of the mitumba trade is essential. Collaborative efforts can lead to a thriving apparel sector that accommodates both new and second-hand markets, ensuring sustainable development and consumer choice.

In conclusion, the mitumba industry serves as a vital component of Kenya's economic and social fabric. Its contributions to employment, economic growth, and environmental sustainability are significant. A nuanced understanding and approach are necessary to address the challenges within the textile sector, promoting policies that support both local production and the beneficial aspects of the mitumba trade.

We welcome constructive dialogue and collaboration to enhance the sector’s contributions to both the economy and the environment and enclose our recent reports for your information.

We therefore request for our right to reply in your news segment. I am available for an interview to clarify and set the record straight on the status of second-hand clothes in Kenya.

 Martin Gitau Nyagah is the Executive Director - Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya