Understanding Swahili clothing

It is not easy to discuss Swahili culture and even their way of code of dressing without referring to Islam.

It’s not clear exactly when Islam became an integral part of Swahili culture, but historical records reveal that Islam was already being practised along the East African Coast as early as the 7th century.

The advent of Islam, however, did not cause the Waswahili to abandon their ancestral worship. Rather, they found ways to integrate traditional belief into Islam and continue the two forms of worship side by side to this day.

Therefore, much of the Swahili clothes we know connote both the cultural and religious aspects of this community.

Below, we highlight the most common Swahili clothes and how and when they are worn by both men, women and children.

MALE CLOTHING

JOHO

This is a cloth made of cotton with gold embellishments and worn by religious and influential men. It was a symbol of the holder’s power in the olden days.

It is normally worn on top of yet another traditional male clothing, known as a kanzu.

Currently, Joho is worn by religious leaders, Imams, during Friday prayers.

It’s also commonly worn by grooms during Swahili weddings.

Some men also wear Joho during special occasions, such as during Eid, Maulid and other religious festivals.

When worn by a groom on his wedding, he completes the look by adding a sword and dagger, which are fixed on his waist and tied with a type of kikoi known as Banadir.

The sword and dagger are signs of respectable virility when worn over the Joho.

KANZU

This is a long-sleeved calico gown worn by men and boys and often supplemented by a coloured waistcoat or Joho, a coloured turban or kilemba in Swahili and leather sandals.

The Swahili kanzu is made of transparent cotton material and embroidered along the neck down to the chest with a small hanging flap.

Kanzu is the official attire for Muslim Swahili men. It is worn every day and also during special occasions.

The different types of kanzu include the Oman, Khaleej, Gulf and Saudi kanzu, all with specific distinctions from each other.

KIKOI

Also known as a loincloth, a kikoi is worn by men around the waist.

It can either be worn with a shirt or vest or under a kanzu.

There are various varieties of kikoi along the Swahili Coast, but the most common is the banadir kikoi, which is handmade, popular and highly valued among the Waswahili.

Most men will simply don a kikoi and throw on a stylish top, depending on the weather and mood.

Other kikoi types include kidochi, saruni, kiguni among others.

The difference lies in the type of material used in making them; some are fine, others are rough.

KOFIA

Kofias are elegant, hand-made, embroidered hats worn by men and young boys at any given time, and they are a symbol of status.

The cost depends on the patterns used, material and time used to make.

A single kofia takes up to three months to put together using different colour threads.

The cost of the kofia ranges from Sh1,000 for the cheapest to as high as Sh50,000, depending on various specifications.

DEBWANI

This is a male cloth consisting of two pieces. One is tied around the neck and the other thrown over the shoulder and across the chest.

Immediately a young boy completes his first reading of the Holy Quran, he is allowed to wear a debwani and then given a knife and belt to tie around his waist.

FEMALE CLOTHING

KANIKI

This is a long piece of cloth that was worn by women and young girls, usually wrapped around the waist with two ends passed over one shoulder into a knot.

The cloth was coarsely woven cotton fabric known as kaniki.

It is a precursor to the present-day buibui, which is worn by women before they leave their houses.

BUIBUI

This is a black or red muslin cloth worn by Muslim Swahili women, enveloping them from head-to-toe, often leaving only the face or eyes in view.

The cloth is to ensure Muslim women don’t appear outside their houses with their bodies, arms and legs exposed to the view of strangers.

Over the years, the standard buibui has transformed through attractive design and detail known as Abaya.

Despite the changes, the Waswahili version of buibui has retained its basic design and is still used alongside modern designs.

Prices range from Sh1,000 to 20,000 or more, depending on the design and type of material used.

It's normally worn with a hijab and sometimes a ninja.

HIJAB

This is a piece of clothing or scarf worn over the buibui mostly covering the head and chest all the way to waist for some.

It’s a sign of modesty, belief and faith on the part of the wearer.

NINJA

This is a piece of black fabric that is sewn to tie around the back of the head and cover the face, leaving a slit for the eyes.

It's normally worn over the hijab.

Dera

A loosely made long cotton dress that is normally worn by Swahili women indoors.

It's normally colourful and comes in different shades and designs that equally determine its cost.

A normal dera sells for between Sh500 and 1,000.

The cost could go up, depending on the quality of material used and the country of origin of the material used.

It’s also worn under the buibui before women step out of their houses.

KHANGA

Some call it a leso. The conventional layout of a kanga is asymmetrical, with four borders and motifs in the corners and a central motif with a saying beneath it.

Common Kanga motifs are cashewnut, mango or paisley shape.

The kanga is deemed incomplete without a motif.

In additional to daily wear, kangas are used at births, death, weddings, folded into shawls or turbans, used as blankets.

They play a significant part in relationships between friends, spouses and lovers.

They are highly desired for their value and beauty and the messages inscribed determine the sales.